Torigoe Matsui

The other day my friend Eric invited me to a matsuri.  I just thought it was going to be a typical matsuri experience but it turned out to be something else entirely.

Eric's friend Jun was there and he grew up in the area.  He was telling us how the main mikoshi for this matsuri, the portable temples that they carry around, was one of the biggest in the country.  It weighs over 4 tons!!!!  Although that sounded interesting I've seen lots of mikoshis being carried around so I wasn't super interested.

But then he started telling us how important this was for people and how they get into fights to try to carry it.

First we saw hundreds of police coming in.  That was not that big a deal although it may be the first time I've ever seen lots of police gathered in one place in Japan.

But, a few minutes later we saw the riot police show up with full padding and all of them carrying plexiglass shields.  That's when I started to take it seriously.

Jun said that they are there to try to prevent people from jumping into the center of the street to try to carry the mikoshi.  I never did get all the details but this particular mikoshi is shared by several groups.

All the groups have different outfits.  While we were there we saw guys in blue outfits, orange outfits, purple outfits, grey outfits and I'm sure a few others.

As the mikoshi came down the street toward where we were standing the police game by and announced that they would trounce anybody that jumped into the street past the fence they had put up and so to please just be good citizens and watch.

 
cool poster

 

the purple group

 

headband group

 

first police sighting

 

roit police

with shields

The first thing you see coming down the street is all these lamps.  All the lamps being held up and all the lamps on the mikoshi are all candles.  Jun says they have to be careful.  Sometimes they catch on fire.

About the time the mikoshi got to us there were a bunch of guys, many dressed in just matsuri underware, attempting to jump the fence and carry the mikoshi.  You could see the police frantically trying to push them away and smacking them with long sticks.

According to Jun the people that want to get in there actually get into fights with the people already in.  They go right up to the people carrying the mikoshi and pop'em one.  You can see in the pictures on the right the mikoshi tipped over.  That's when enough people get into a fight for position that they can no longer hold the thing up.  Remember it weighs 4 tons!  People can get seriously hurt.  There were two paramedic vans pacing the back of the group just in case.  It took them almost an hour just to move the thing the final block and a half into the temple.  Every 20-30 feet it would fall again, people having gotten into a fight over it.

Of course the crowd would cheer when they got it back up.  Especially because it's not an easy task.  Once it's on everyone's shoulders it's slightly less difficult but getting it on everyone's shoulders even when people are not being punched is extremely hard.  In fact usually they have a stand to put it on before people get under it but here, since they are basically putting it down in the street they don't have any such luck.

Jun says next year we can carry a smaller one in another matsuri if we want.  The fighting is not something that happens at most of these things as far as I know but this one in particular has this separate history.  It was super interesting.

 

 

approaching lamps

 

the mikoshi

 

fallen

 

trying to get it up

 

fallen again


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Comments:

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I've been to this matsuri three different years and know a little bit about it because my spouse is from that area.  I was there this year as well and was in the same crowd you were.

The "groups" you refer to are representatives of the various neighborhoods served by the Torigoe Shrine.  Each neighborhood has their own outfits and their own mikoshi.  I'm not sure how many neighborhoods there are -- maybe about a dozen.  The first day of the matsuri each neighborhood starts off their mikoshi from the shrine around 7am and parades it around the neighborhood.  This culminates in a trip to the shrine in the evening to get it blessed.  During this time the big mikoshi is parked at the shrine for viewing.

The second day they bring out the big-ass mikoshi.  It is paraded through the various neighborhoods during the entire day.  So each neighborhood team gets a chance to carry it.  I think the route is mostly the same except that every year the rotation changes.  Hence in our neighborhood it comes by during the morning one year and the afternoon the next.  This culminates in the return to the shrine in the evening which you witnessed.  I think the neighborhood that immediately surrounds the shrine is the one that carries it in.

I don't think that every time the mikoshi tilted or almost fell was necessarily because people were getting into fights over it.  But certainly people trying to switch in and out, getting tired, etc has something to do with it.  And that fact that when people aren't carrying the mikoshi they mostly sit around all day drinking is a big factor in any fighting that may go on.

For those wishing to take pictures of this event, you can get very close in throughout the entire two days except that final push of the big mikoshi.  The first night, I was right underneath the torii while they were bringing in the neighborhood mikoshi.  Also as the big one is going through a neighborhood, you can usually get quite close.  They have maps of the route so you can watch it pass, run to another point to watch, then repeat many times to try to get that quintessential picture if you like.  Also, right around the shrine you'll find all the usual matsuri yatai (booths) selling food & toys.  If you're in Tokyo during the first weekend of June, I highly recommend checking out this festival.

If you're interested, there are some pics of the Torigoe Matsuri at:
http://www.trekjapan.com/gal
lery/Kanto/Tokyo/Torigoe/

http://www.trekearth.com/gal
lery/Asia/Japan/Kanto/Tokyo/
Torigoe/

posted by anon_mdchachiAugust 8, 2003 at 11:46